Portsmouth Captures New Hampshire's Charm
by Deborah Straw

Some small towns are much more welcoming and vital than others. Generally, a town's overall attractiveness is based on the residents' energy and commitment to the town, on the economy, on the natural setting, and sometimes on the situation of universities or colleges which add a cultural aspect. Often the town is steeped in history.

One small town that matches most of these qualities (it has no university) is Portsmouth, New Hampshire, one of the prettiest and hippest towns in the state. Portsmouth has a festive soul; it offers visitors many options in culture, cuisine and seacoast activities.

The town is filled with used book stores, craft shops, art galleries, 1950's furniture and antique shops, fine restaurants, and year-round festivals. Portsmouth is a short 11 miles to Rye Beach, New Hampshire, and 16 to York Beach, Maine. Finally, it is home to Strawbery Banke, an in-town village museum of 40 preserved and interpreted houses from the 17th and 18th centuries -- a fascinating and stunning assortment of architecture. In fact, Portsmouth's original name was Strawbery Banke, for the wild strawberries early settlers found growing along the river banks.

Portsmouth exudes history. By 1640 approximately 170 people lived and worked in this community. Paul Revere made his first ride in late 1774 (before the American Revolution began), not as acclaimed as the more famed one, to Portsmouth to bring news. Clipper ships were once built in Portsmouth, and John Paul Jones, the father of the American Navy, also lived in this small town.

Several military and historic sites still exist in the immediate vicinity. Fort McClary, a state park on the Piscataqua River in nearby Kittery Point, Maine, was manned during five wars, the last being World War I. Three lighthouses -- Whaleback, White Island and the New Castle shore -- once provided navigational references for Portsmouth Harbor. Albacore Park, on Market Street, is now a museum -- you can tour the USS Albacore submarine. Two other war memorabilia museums are at the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard Museum and Visitor and at the Kittery (Maine) Naval and Historic Museum.

The town center is beautiful and well kept. Market Square makes up the heart of downtown; many of its buildings date back to the 1600s and are relatively unchanged. There you will find galleries, book stores, both new and used, seafood markets, antique shops and much more. For food, there are lots of choices -- French, Italian, Thai and Japanese restaurants, micro-breweries, and a myriad of places to order fresh seafood.

In nearby Kittery Point, Maine, Captain Simeon's serves the best baskets of tender, not greasy, fried clams, shrimp or fish that I've ever tasted. And the lobster is a treat as well.

Several festivals are held in Portsmouth throughout the year. The Chili Cook-Off will be held on the Saturday during Columbus Day weekend in Prescott Park. Contestants compete to win a prize for the area's best chili. The Winter Solstice Celebration is a month-long celebration beginning with a holiday parade on the first Saturday in December. The event includes special downtown shopping promotions, theatre productions, Strawbery Banke's Candlelight Stroll, performances of The Nutcracker and more. And finally, Portsmouth is one of dozens of cities around the country to offer a First Night celebration.

Several sites around town offer live entertainment including chamber music, dance, theater, folk artists, and more. This is an alcohol-free event, appropriate for all ages. Dress warmly as you'll be outside between events.

Portsmouth is a charming, somewhat undiscovered destination. Its activities will keep you busy for a few days, or the bustling small community can serve as a central point from which to explore the New Hampshire and Maine seacoasts.